For the first time since we opened our winery doors I will be following, learning, and maybe even making decisions on crafting a wine! Of course David and Karen will be there every step of the way, but this will be my first step into understanding winemaking, and how much fun when it’s one of my favorites… viognier.
Viognier is not your usual winegrape. When we planted it in 1998 it was considered an unusual varietal in the Lodi Appellation. So out of the ordinary we named the vineyard “Exotics”. It was a varietal that we were, for the most part, unfamiliar with. We did know it could be difficult to grow due to its susceptibility to powdery mildew, and it had unpredictable yields. Why plant something like this? All because of the end result.
If you have tasted finished Viognier you know it’s like no other wine. Aromas of honeysuckle (a sweet scented shrub or vine that can produce edible nectar), citrus blossoms, ripe white melon, freshly picked peaches and apricots, and ripe pears immediately catch your attention. Though your nose tells you the wine should be sweet, your palate will be surprised to taste a dry wine that has flavors resembling a mixture of the aromas, along with a perfect balance of acidity.
That is what you typically expect, but what about our Viognier? We poured a couple healthy glasses straight from the tank and the first smell that hit my nose is yeast. This is common, especially when the wine is just racked, (racking is moving the wine off the lees and lees are the yeast deposits). Throughout this process the yeast is stirred a bit. But after giving it a moment to settle a tropical nose of fresh cut pineapple came forward, but no perfume notes… yet. Sometimes during this phase of winemaking certain aromas and tastes will diminish, but just give it time and it will come back.
As I taste, the tropical fruit flavors are there, just as I expect, but as I swallow there is a bite from the acid. Yikes! What is this all about? Tartaric acid. This is naturally occurring in the winegrape. Acid develops in a winegrape and balances as other aspects, like sugar, balance. But sometimes, for whatever reason, the balance isn’t perfect – which is why there is malic acid. Malic acid adds weight to the wine, and will hit your palate in the front. So if it seems like there is too much acid in the front, we add tartaric acid, and if there is a sense of too much acid in the back, it’s time to add a little malic. Not too complicated… and then we did just this. David added a tiny tiny droplet of malic acid and just like that, the acid balance was back. Winemaking is amazing!
Next step for the Viognier… sur lie aging. For 5 months or more the wine sits on the lees to add a savory creaminess. Every few months I will be tasting and noting the changes and progress of the Viognier, lucky me!
